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Revell Germany 2006 Ford Shelby

Review of GT-H scale model car kit with a good decals
RELATED TOPICS: FORD
Shelby_Lede
Kit No.: 07665
Scale: 1/25
Mfr.: Revell Germany, revell.de
Price: $35.95
Comments: 109 injection-molded parts (black, gray, silver, clear, chrome plated); four vinyl tires; decals
Pros: A good decal sheet; Parts fit fairly well 
Cons: Heavy mold lines on the wheels; ride height too high; fiddly wheel mount system; Shelby GT-H strip lettering incorrectly sized


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Shelby_Ender2
Back in 1966 when the Shelby G.T. 350 was new, the car rental company Hertz made a deal with Ford to offer "Rent-a-Racer" Mustangs. These were the same iconic Shelbys like the traditional white-and-blue ones but with a special black-and-gold paint scheme and G.T.350H badging. In 2006, a similar program was introduced, and 500 new Shelby GT-H cars were made for Hertz. They featured the same color scheme and some upgrades and modifications, such as a special hood, grille, front fascia, and wheels.

Revell Germany’s 2006 GT-H kit is a reissue originally tooled in 2005 and has been released a few different times with multiple variations. It only builds the GT-H variant due to its unique parts. The color instructions are easy to follow and include painting information. 

Revell Germany provides an extensive decal sheet with many details for the interior and under the hood as well as exterior graphics. It has quite a few extras, too. The images are printed sharply even though many of the labels just have filler text. Decal No. 41 for the serpentine belt did not fit well. I cut out the clear portion in the center and used the two ends to remedy the issue. 

The decal dash gauges work with the clear lens. While the instructions show decal No. 24 going under the hood, it’s too large for the intended area. I think this is a problem inherited from another version because the marking doesn’t appear in photos of the real cars. It is probably a carry-over from a different version as it is not in the photos of real cars, so I left it off.  

The kit has some minor to moderate flash and mold lines that are easily addressed in most cases.  However, the wheels in my sample suffered not only from significant flash, but debris caught under the chrome plating. Fortunately, the real car's wheels are not plated in the affected center areas, but it was a tedious task to remove the flash and sand the dirt out of the chrome. 

The tires are generic with a sort of all-season tread style and no sidewall detail. They also look a bit tall.   This compounds the suspension height issue and detracts from the overall look. (Other versions of this kit have the same problem.) It is not hard to lower these kits to a more realistic height and takes about 15 minutes. 

Follow the instructions below.
Shelby_01
Here is the kit’s front cross-member with mounting bosses as molded.


Shelby_02
I removed the mounting bosses for the rotors from the cross-member with a razor saw and repositioned them with plastic cement about 1/8-inch higher than the previous location. I also re-drilled the hole through the center of the boss for the rivets that will hold the wheels on.


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To lower the rear end, I shaved the center link molded to the chassis and reamed out the holes for the rear coil springs so they could slide through.


Shelby_Ender3
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The rest of the assemblies were built as shown in the instructions, but the rear axle was not cemented to the control arms until final assembly.

After mounting the body to the chassis, I manually aligned each of the four wheels in their respective wheel wells and cemented in place with a drop of superglue. The fronts received a drop where the strut meets the upper inner fender and the rears were secured where the control arms attach to the axle.  These adjustments didn't change the kit’s rivet mounting system. 

By nature, there is a little slack between the wheel back and the brake rotor which creates a wobbly issue. The wheels roll (even with this modification), but one or two need to be posed each time the model is set down for the best aesthetic results.

Body cleanup and prep was trouble-free; I didn't even rescribe the door and trunk lines, however I did deepen the side window trim a bit. The engine and the bay fit together nicely, and the interior is passably detailed. The extra decals add a lot to those areas and make for a refreshing upgrade.

The stripe decals are thin, yet opaque. I applied the roof and larger hood decal stripes first, pleased they were strong and pliable enough that no decal setting solution was needed. All the stripes could have been just a bit longer; they fit, but only just. 

When it came to applying the trunk decal, I wished it had been design as two pieces. The one-piece decal required patience and solvent to get it to settle. I had a similar experience with the decal for the front bumper.  

The Shelby GT-H lettering for the side stripes is the wrong typeface and too wide to fit in the allotted space on the front fender. I positioned them to try to keep the lettering off the doors and from wrapping into the wheel wells, but they still look wrong.

Final assembly was not difficult due to well-fitting parts. The windows install from the outside; use canopy glue to keep them in place (same for the lights). The body fits tightly over the interior/chassis. Feed in the rear first, then carefully spread the sides and work the front in. You won’t need glue to keep it in place. 

The tiny chrome Hertz badges for the front fenders would have been better as decals. 

I have to say, even though it’s rated a skill level 4 kit by Revell, the Shelby GT-H is a pretty easy to build. Modifying the stance helps give it a more realistic look.

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