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Hasegawa 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport L10B

Hasegawa No. SP368
Molded Colors: White, black, clear, chrome
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $64.99
Pros: Great decals and Mylar transfers; nice fitting kit; easy to build
Cons: Significant number of ejector-pin marks
Only 833 Cosmo Sport Series II cars were made, and Hasegawa’s replica builds as a right-hand-drive, standard curbside model with moderate chassis detailing and posable steering. 

Seventy-five styrene parts make up the majority of the parts. They’re molded mostly in white or black plastic, with some clear and chrome parts. The kit features nice, pliable Dunlop tires with tread detail and simple sidewall lettering, light-gray self-adhesive carpet, and Mylar transfers for the badges and mirrors. Decals are also provided if you want to detail the chrome accents but don’t want to use Mylar. The interior decals offer gauges, badges, houndstooth seat inserts, and even a fine stripe for the steering wheel rim.

There’s also a nice mesh screen for the front grille.

Overall, the parts fit well and the instructions are as good as most of Hasegawa’s other kits, with plenty of painting info and easy-to-follow assembly illustrations.

Body mold lines are fairly well placed but are noticeably heavier than some found on more recent Hasegawa offerings; the plastic is a bit on the hard side. Still, I spent only a little extra sanding to remove them.

White, red, and black were the most common colors for the full-size Cosmo. I went with Tamiya light blue (AS-5) from a spray can and allowed it to dry. Before applying a final coat, I darkened the panel lines with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. After letting the body dry in the sun for a few hours, one last thin coat of light blue muted the contrast.

Next, I sealed the body with a mix of ScaleFinishes 2Klear mixed with old PPG activator and Matrix medium urethane reducer. While I don’t recommended mixing different brands of paint, in this instance, I used something I’d experimented with and had achieved consistent results. I applied in two coats via airbrush; the second coat thinned an additional 30% and sprayed about 15 minutes after the first. I finished the headlight buckets at the same time.

Bare-Metal Foil chrome went over the trim and was a surprisingly easy task. Even the headlight surrounds weren’t difficult to complete. The headlight covers fit from the outside, so be careful when applying plastic cement. I used Formula 560 canopy glue applied with a toothpick along the edges of the clear parts and let it sit for a few minutes before installing them. Just as the glue became clear, I carefully wiped the tiny amount of excess that squeezed out with a damp cotton swab. Once dry, I waxed the entire body, including the clear parts.

I really like the way the hubcap decals worked: chrome caps with crisply engraved logos that match the decals perfectly. Apply a little decal solvent to the part before lining up the decal with the engraving. Then leave it alone to dry. Each conformed beautifully to the hub cap’s contours.

There is also a figure of a woman included in the kit. A four-part model in its own right, it’s posed and dressed appropriately for the ’60s.

When I started building this kit, I didn’t think I’d want to build another one partly due to its uniqueness and limited factory-stock color palette. But because of the extra details, nice fit, and general ease of assembly, I would definitely consider building another.

If you have any interest in rare foreign cars — and even if you don’t — I recommend this thoroughly enjoyable kit.


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