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Cutting photoetched parts from the tree

Tip 1: For cutting small photoetched parts off the sprues, I stick a piece of masking tape to the backside of the fret, then use a hobby knife to cut as close to the part as possible.
    To avoid bending the pieces, I cut on a piece of thick glass.
    I wish all photoetch makers used a rubber backing, so there would be no need to cut, trim, or sand any of the pieces – especially some of the delicate scripts that seem to bend by just looking at them.
  – Gerry Chevalier

Same method, different tape:

Tip 2: I lay down double-stick tape on a smooth, glass cutting board. I then stick the photoetched piece(s) to the tape and use a fresh hobby knife blade to cut them from the tree. This leaves very little of the tree to be sanded.
       – Dan Whitaker

Tip 3: I found a way to keep from losing small photoetched parts:
    I use Badger Foto/Frisket Film (stock No. 601).  The vinyl sheets measure 8x11 inches x 2mil thick, and are sold in 10-sheet packs.  
    I cut one square of Frisket film the same size as the photoetched parts tree, and adhere it to the back of the tree.  Now the parts won’t fly away when I cut them. In addition, the film makes excellent masking for airbrushing.
      – David Murphy

Tip 4: Sometimes the best way to trim a photoetched part (especially the small bits) from a tree is to hold the photo-etch tree flat on a hard surface using a piece of flat, clear plastic and use a curved blade to cut the connectors.
     – Paul D’Orival
       Canberra, Australia

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