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Hasegawa Fujitsu Ten Tom’s Corolla AE101

Hasegawa No. 20302
Molded Colors: Gray, red, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $52.99
Pros: Easy assembly, cool stance
Cons: Many decal markings, no racing harness included
At times there are more racing series than I can keep track of.

Perhaps you already knew about the Japanese Touring Car Championship, racing FIA Group A spec cars. But the first I heard of it was when I opened the 1/24 scale Fujitsu Ten Tom’s Corolla AE101 from Hasegawa.

Inside, there are 68 parts molded on 11 sprues, plus four slick tires and four vinyl wheel retainers.

Of the total, 14 parts are for the road-going version and aren’t used.

The 68 parts includes an extra sprue not indicated on the instruction sheet with a different set of outside rearview mirrors and reflectors.

An instruction addendum calls out their use. The mirrors accurately reflect what’s shown on the cover art.

Also accurately reflected in the finished model is the car’s stance, with extreme camber giving the car a unique squat.

Like the front-wheel-drive racer, the model’s wheels and tires have a reverse stagger - that is, the front wheels and tires are wider than those in the rear.

This is a curbside kit, so construction begins with the chassis. The first step is to build the rear struts and front hubs.

Be sure to use the correct parts so your model maintains the racing stance.

The chassis builds up quickly and features poseable steering. Take your time assembling the struts and control arms, as they’re a little bit fiddly.

Its interior is tub-style and includes a racing seat, roll cage, stripped down dashboard with instrument decals, and an unidentified tank. It looks too small to be a fuel tank, maybe it holds oil or coolant for the driver.

The only thing missing is a representation of the racing harness. I varied from the instruction sequence and put two of the three roll cage pieces together, one side and the top.

Then I placed the cage in the interior, worked the dash around the cage, and added the second side of the roll cage afterward. Don’t forget to drill the locating holes for the roll cage.

The same steps include attaching the wheels and tires. The only indication the tires are varying sizes is that the part numbers are different.

All wheels are easier to identify, as the fronts have five spokes and the rears have four. Perhaps that’s to simplify things for the pit crews.

There are a lot of decals, and they all went on well. Included are markings for two cars, and some of the sponsor decals change depending on the car’s number.

I had the body shell painted before I remembered to drill holes in the rear deck for what I assume are fuel fillers.

A quick touchup with Tamiya bright red took care of the bare plastic.

I was applying the decals when I noticed I should have removed the windshield washer nozzles from the hood. I left them body-colored and hoped they’d get lost among the hood decals.

Attaching the body to the interior and chassis was a snap - literally.

Similar to other Hasegawa kits, this one was well engineered and went together without any major hiccups.


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