Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Revell 1967 Dodge Charger Foose Design

’67 Dodge Charger
“Foose Design”
Revell No. 85-4051
Model Type: Injection-molded
Molded Colors: Transparent white and red, chrome
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $19.95
Pros: Great model of a stock ’67 Charger,  stock parts, nice decals
Cons: Doesn’t truly capture the feel of a Foose creation, new parts fitment
This is a 2 ’n’ 1 reissue of the stock Charger with three trees of new parts, one of which is chrome. There also is an additional set of larger tires, plus new wheels, valve covers, seats, steering wheel, and a shaker hood and scoop. The wheels are similar, but not identical, to those shown in the kit’s box art.

The kit is packaged compactly, but sadly mine had a crushed A-pillar, yet the box wasn't damaged. A little massaging and extra care to not over-stress it while building and before installing the windshield to shore it up, made it a near non-issue, but not good if this is a common occurrence.

Parts are molded well and have some flash in expected places, but that’s easy to clean. There's a little bulge in the upper edge of the body indent, forward of the gas cap, on the left. It can be sanded and reshaped without much effort, but I left it to see if decals would mask it. Nope, the bulge was still visible.

Had I built the stock version this would absolutely be properly addressed. I left the stock raised badging on the body instead of sanding it off as directed.
I have no issue with the Foose paint scheme, but wanted something different than black and silver. I shot the body Tamiya medium sea gray (AS-12) from the can, then masked the sides and airbrushed a few coats of Mazda (W1) metallic gray touch-up paint. It goes on coarse so I sealed it with a couple coats of Testors One-Coat Lacquer clear (decanted and airbrushed). When dry, I sanded the orange peel in the clear with 1000-grit.

Instead of chrome trim, I painted the window frames and side moldings semi-gloss black before applying the kit’s decal stripes. The stripes were applied in the order called out and I let each one dry, and then cut off the overhang at the rear edge of the door before proceeding with the next one. After the decals were applied and allowed to dry, the body parts were shot with Matrix two-part urethane.

Its interior pieces went together well. I followed the color recommendations with a couple minor changes. Again, the kit decals were used.

I like the new seats and steering wheel.

Outside the wheels were painted the same color as the body sides, but finished with a coat of clear flat after the decals were applied to the center caps. This also was done with the hood scoop.

Instructions don't show which way the tires are to be installed on the rims, but if they are mounted to the rims with the busier edge tread engraving out, they won't fit under the front wheel wells. The rears benefit from being installed opposite from the fronts. While not technically correct, the builder can decide what works best.

The engine goes together predictably and fits well. The decals for the valve covers are a nice touch, even if they don't quite match the raised lettering.

The windows fit well, a plus here due to the damaged left A-pillar. I cemented the top and bottom edges of the windshield in with R/C 560 canopy glue and let dry.

Then I ran a bead of CA along the glass and bent A-pillar to keep it straight. The wind wings were a breeze to install.

Chassis and interior fit easily into the body, but a significant amount of force was required to push the chassis rearward enough that the front tires would not touch the front edges of the wheel wells. Once the chassis was pre-loaded, CA and accelerator were used to keep it in place.

Unfortunately the size of the front wheels and tires, and the position of the mounting pins on the front suspension piece sit at best, level. Mine looks like the rear is sitting low; not with the desired nose-down rake that makes the whole package look so slick per Foose’s drawings. I think its stance is the biggest disappointment in this version of the kit.

Cutting off the mounting pins from the front suspension and moving them up might work, and it looks like there may be enough room in the fender wells to do that, but I don't think the 1/4-in. needed to match the rendering, can be had without cutting the tires.

If you want to use the custom shaker scoop, you need to forgo not only the windshield wiper motor, but cut the mounting boss for it off the firewall. You can retain the distributor if you trim the shaft down (I cut half off). Also, the well-fitting upper radiator hose interferes with the base of the shaker. Its visible on the box end panel that the air cleaner base has been trimmed to clear the hose, as is the probable omission of the wiper motor.

Since the scoop sits a bit low in relation to the hood, I shimmed it between the base of the air cleaner and the top of the carbs with a couple pieces of .040 styrene, that way I did not have to cut it to clear the hose.

This is actually a good kit and I would recommend it, but with reservations pertaining to the custom wheels, final stance and the shaker hood/scoop.
Would I build another? Yes, but I’d be leaning more toward stock if only using the kit pieces.


Read and share your comments on this article

Want to leave a comment?

Only registered members of are allowed to leave comments. Registration is FREE and only takes a couple minutes.

Login or Register now.
Free guide

Free guide

Graft Jaguar and Mazda bodies
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our privacy policy