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Hasegawa Datsun Fairlady 240Z Rally Winner

RELATED TOPICS: HASEGAWA
Fairladybox
Datsun 240Z Rally Winner
Hasegawa No. 21268
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: White, black, chrome, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $54.99
Pros: Good parts fit, intriguing build
Cons: Noticeable cleaning required in some steps
Fairlady1
Fairlady2
Fairlady3
THIS HASEGAWA kit is a modified reissue of an earlier Fairlady 240Z. It represents the 1971 winning car that competed in the treacherous 3,300-mile East Africa Safari Rally across Kenya. 

I was able to find photos of the original car taken during the rally, its body battered, bruised and damaged from competition. Sadly, the kit doesn’t come with pieces like the buckled hood, bent front bumper or other scars of the race.

There are options in the instructions to build it missing some parts like the right side spotlight, but actual battle damage is not accurately replicated, therefore it’s up to the builder to get creative.

There are 109-pieces plus six, semi-soft tires and four poly caps to mount the wheels.  In addition to the Cartograf decals there is a sheet of chrome, Mylar transfers and some screen mesh. Instructions are standard with plenty of painting info and clear drawings with some advisory comments.

The front nose piece that includes the headlights and grille parts can be installed before painting the body. Then, go ahead and add the details. While the nose piece fits well, it needed a bit of sanding to get the seams just right. I suggest securely cementing it onto the body, as it broke loose while fitting the body over the chassis. 

I used Testors PLA enamel No. 1103 red for the main body color and black chrome trim for the hood and upper fenders.

The screen mesh for the front grille does not adhere well, even with super glue. I found it easier to fold a slightly oversized piece of the screen in the center to help it conform to the peak of the grille, cement it to the plastic piece along the top edge and use accelerator before carefully trimming to fit with sharp scissors.

Since several items are different from earlier versions of the kit, you will need to clean a hefty amount of holes in various parts before actually mounting. Pay attention to the early steps, ensuring you’ve taken care of all the holes. It’s easy to miss one or two.

The Mylar accents for the badges work in conjunction with the decals.  Extra decals are provided for use without the Mylar as well. Decals responded well to Scale Motorsport’s Decal-Magic, but I used GSI Creos’ Mr. Mark Softer for the decals that get applied to the matte-finished hood to avoid any potential silvering.

Overall, the general fit of this kit is good, although many of the markers and spotlights are quite fiddly. They’re manageable, but extra patience will go a long way, especially with the petite, amber front side marker lights.

I changed the order of the final assembly process rather than following the instructions because there were so many pieces that could be knocked off. I installed the most fragile parts last.

I found it helpful to leave the rear wheels and tires off so that I could safely hold the car by the rear brake drums and avoid any potential finger oil smudges on the body.

Finally, mount the rear mud flaps after decaling.

Despite missing some of its authentic, rally damage, this kit makes for a nice rendition of a historic and iconic car. I’m now eager to build a comparable street version of Datsun’s Fairlady 240Z.


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