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AMT 1949 Ford Coupe

RELATED TOPICS: AMT
Coupebox
1949 Ford Coupe
AMT No. 1022/12
Model Type: Injection-molded
styrene
Molded Colors: White, black, clear, gray, translucent red
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $30.99
Pros: Excellent glass; great set of tires
Cons: Simple detail; parting-line flash
Coupe1
Coupe2
Coupe3
This is a great kit that has been reproduced many times. It has approximately 100 pieces.

Round 2 has reproduced all of the original Gasser and custom parts, and added two pairs of pie-crust slicks: one whitewall and the other pad-printed white letters.

The engine (competition) has two block halves with oil pan and starter molded in; two heads, with exhaust manifolds attached; two valve covers; front cover; blower intake manifold; three-piece blower; injector tubes; and blower belt.

The blower intake manifold sits about a 1/16 inch too far forward. You will need to remove the locator pin and leave the manifold loose, then line it up with the blower belt.

The instructions show adding the upper radiator hose to the blown engine. It will not fit, so I left it off.

There is also has a complete stock Ford Flathead engine and stand for display.

The interior has the bucket with rear seat molded in, and the bottom of the interior bucket is about 1/3 of the floor pan. You have to make sure to match the paint on the chassis. It has fair door- panel detail; bench front seat or bucket seats; dash; steering column; a choice of two steering wheels; optional floor shift lever; foot pedals; gauge plate, and seat belts. There is also an optional roll cage for the competition version.

The chassis has 12 pieces: floor pan and frame molded together; front and rear splash pans; dual exhaust; drag exhaust dumps; bottom plate with lower A-arms; two upper A-arms; two-piece rear axle; driveshaft; leaf springs; shocks; and a set of traction bars.

The biggest challenge is to get the leaf springs’ pins to line up and sit straight in the chassis. I opened the mounting holes and glued them in, one side at a time.

The body is a one-piece unit, with separate hood (you get two hoods, stock and custom), plus all the old custom grilles, bumpers, taillights, two hood ornaments, headlights (and headlight covers for the drag version) and two sets of glass (clear and translucent red).

The instructions show to use the custom hood for the Gasser version, then show the stock hood in another section of the directions. The box art shows the custom hood.

When I tried to put in the Moon tank, it would not sit correctly; I had to trim off two of the feet to make it seat.

Building went well. I spent most of my time sanding the body (some parting lines, and there is a large bulge in the lower trunk area).

The assembly is tight, with the interior bucket and chassis each having a part of the floor pan. You will also have to paint the front lip and guide pins of the interior bucket the same color as the engine bay; if not, you will see it.

Make sure you get the interior bucket as far forward as possible, or the chassis will not fit correctly.

If you choose to build the Gasser version, the body has a guideline for you to remove or radius the rear wheel wells. You will need to trim an extra 1/32 inch for the slicks to clear, but be careful not to go too far or the edge of the wheel tubes will show.

I also used the new Molotow liquid- chrome pins for all the chrome touchup and window trim.

It builds into a nice model, and I, for one, enjoyed it. It’s a simple kit that builds into a great-looking model, with a little time and effort

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