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Monogram Dodge Viper RT/10

Monogram Dodge Viper RT/10
Dodge Viper RT/10
Monogram No. 85-4010
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: White, clear, translucent red
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $19.95
Pros: Nice chrome plating
Cons: Tricky mirror installation; no sidewall detail on tires
Monogram’s 1/25 scale Viper was first issued in 1992 as a Revell SnapTite kit.  Since then, the kit has been reissued at least twice.  

The model is molded in white styrene, with clear and translucent red parts as well. A set of low-profile big-and-little tires are present; however, they do not have any sidewall detail.

There is also a small sheet of decals for gauges, body emblems, and floor mats. It’s also worth noting that the chrome tree is plated well.

Assembly of the iconic sports car begins with the simplified engine and drivetrain. For example, the exhaust headers are molded to the side of the engine block, and the driveshaft and rear end housing are also molded to the engine/transmission. 
The engine front (water pump, alternator, etc.), oil pan, and rear end cover are plated pieces. To remedy this, I gave these parts a layer of flat clear to tone down the shine. There is a total of just seven pieces that comprise the engine/drivetrain unit.

The chassis is also quite simplified; the majority of the front and rear suspension units are molded directly to the chassis pan. The disk brakes are plated, and also benefit from a coat of flat clear. Adding only the tie rod and upper A-arms and coil-overs completes the front suspension, and the upper A-arms and coil-overs complete the rear suspension. The rear wheel wells finish off the chassis.

The interior builds in typical fashion. The door panels are separate, the seats are two-piece units, and there are decals included for all seven gauges, the steering wheel badge, and the floor mats. I recommend a coat of flat clear over the floor mats as well.  

The instructions do not mention that the area behind the seats should be painted with whichever body color you choose. You should paint this area first, then mask and paint the rest of the interior.

The inner panel of the roll hoop is tricky to install, and it leaves prominent separation lines when finished.  

The rear bumper is a separate piece as well, and it took a little bit of adjusting to get it into the proper location.  

Before mating the body to the chassis, the taillights, radiator, front sway bar, pedals, and the complete interior must be put into place.  

After the body, interior, and chassis are mated, the front bumper can be assembled and installed, and the engine bay can be finished. The front bumper needs the headlight lenses and covers set in place, and the fog lights mounted using the tool included in the kit.  

The engine bay is completed after the valve covers, intake manifold, and brake booster are snapped into place.

The tires are molded well, but do not feature any sort of sidewall detail, and the wheels are two-piece directional units. Apply the Viper badge decal to the wheel centers, snap the wheels onto the chassis without any glue, and the model can roll freely.

I had trouble installing the mirrors in the slots molded into the doors. I had to remove most of the tab molded to each mirror to get the mirror to sit properly on top of the door.

It took a little bit of carefully-applied pressure to get the windshield to snap into the holes molded into the leading edge of the dash.  

To top off the Viper, the hood hinge just snaps onto the hood, and the hood falls right into place on the body.


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