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Revell-Monogram 1937 Ford Coupe Street Rod

1937 Ford Coupe Street Rod
Revell-Monogram No. 85-2071
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors:
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $15.50
Pros: A fun model to build; notches for glass a big help
Cons: Some issues with interior and dash final assembly
Building the 1937 Ford Street Rod model was fun - especially because I am building a 1:1 version too.

The model can be built traditionally, with big-and-little tires/rims, or the newer style Street Rod with 18-inch rims.

Two engine choices are available: a traditional carbureted engine, or the newer style fuel-injected engine.

Other choices include billet-style or molded-style mirrors; a dropped straight front axle with leaf springs, or an independent front suspension; and the model can be built with or without bumpers.
The front fenders and the rear pan on the car body come molded shut, so the front and rear bumpers don't have to be used, but there are indentations to cut out for the bumper brackets.

I chose to build the Street Rod by using the big-and-little rims and tires, carbureted engine, molded-style mirrors, and independent front suspension.

I recommend that you strip the chrome grille, because in 1937 the Fords never came with them. By making the grille body color, you will need to add chrome foil to the top, sides, and middle of the grille.
I found that assembling the taillights, firewall, grille, side hood panels, and running boards made for ease of painting, and those pieces won't have to be assembled after painting. I glued the molded mirrors to the body of the Street Rod before painting, for the same reason.

The body is predrilled for the billet mirrors, so the mirror holes will need to be closed up. I used regular automotive body putty for that.

Before applying primer, I assembled the engine halves, cylinder heads, and intake manifold. The two crossmembers and both independent front and rear suspensions will need to be installed for the chassis to be ready for priming.

I use lacquer primer on all models I build; it works as a good sealer for any paint. All that is needed before base color is applied is to sand the primer with 600- grit paper.

One of the best things about the assembly was the molded notches inside the body for placement of the glass; the glass went in like a charm. Be sure to mask off the back window rubber before you install the back window.

Assembly of the interior panels and dash presented some issues. The directions show to install the interior to the underside of the body, but I would attach the interior panels and dash directly to the fender assembly, so the body would slip over the interior. When I assembled the body to the fender, the interior kept being pushed up, so you could see the backside of the interior. I ended up using five-minute epoxy and holding the interior
in place until it cured.

I broke off the license-plate holder on the left taillight, so after some reshaping and repainting, I installed the license-plate holder to the back side of the chassis just under the trunk.
1937 Ford Coupe Street Rod
All things said, following all the assembly instructions that I informed you about, the 1937 Ford Street Rod was a really nice model to build. For the most part, the pieces of the Street Rod were free from flash, and had just a few mold lines to be removed. When you receive models that don't need a lot of preparation before paint, it really helps the modeler and makes for a much-better build.

This was the second 1937 Ford that I have built, and I plan on building another one shortly, so I definitely recommend the kit to all modelers.


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