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Revell-Monogram 1959 Ford Fairlane Skyliner

April 2007
RELATED TOPICS: REVELL
1959 Ford Fairlane Skyliner
Revell Germany No. H1227-0389
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors:Gray, clear
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $16.00
Pros:Nice to see this reissue
Cons: Plenty of cleanup work required; some assembly problems still present from original issue of kit
Building the 1959 Ford Fairlane 500 Skyliner retractable was a challenge. This kit was originally issued many years ago. It was then molded in yellow, and is now molded in green. That was a problem, because all of the parts had to be primed before painting could be done.



After gluing the body pieces together, plenty of cleanup work was necessary. After cleaning up the mold lines and the extra scale, I primed the body and added body putty to the area where the tops of the front fenders attach to the sides. Four imperfections on the trunk lid needed to be filled as well.



After getting the body pieces to fit correctly, I glued the trunk lid to the body, in the open position - to simulate the retractable top being lowered into the hidden compartment.



The chassis and interior are molded together. The items that need to be assembled to the interior side of the chassis plate were the seats and the retractable roof assembly. I glued the seats and the retractable roof into the chassis plate to make one assembly.



The next step is to assemble the rear differential and front axle. With all the parts glued into their correct positions, everything is now ready to be primed.



The engine assembly consists of two pieces that make up the engine block, pulleys/fan belt, fan, rocker covers, and air cleaner. After assembling the pieces, I painted the engine block Ford blue, transmission and fan silver, and air cleaner and fan belts black.



I chose to make the car two-tone; the top white and the bottom aqua. Because of this, the body had to be painted in two steps: base white first, then the aqua.



After painting the white, I waited about six hours, then taped up the top portion so no aqua would leak through onto the white. I use chrome foil to separate the two colors, because of the fine line chrome foil produces.



Because I chose to make the exterior two-tone, I also needed to make the interior two-tone for realism. I used the same technique on the interior as the exterior: painting the base white and then using chrome foil to mask the areas I wanted to stay white.



After painting the final color, I waited about three hours to remove the masking tape and chrome foil.



The next step was to start foiling all of the chrome trim on the body and interior. Be prepared to go through about three-quarters of a sheet of chrome foil on such a detailed model as this. I always apply the chrome foil before the clearcoat, so the foil won't peel off after final assembly.



The hardest part of final assembly was trying to put on the windshield chrome. The windshield frame has pegs that go into two holes molded in the body. I tried using the two pegs for assembly, but found out it was much easier to just cut them off. It is also much easier gluing the windshield frame to the body before gluing the windshield into place.



After I assembled the windshield frame and the windshield in position, it was easy to glue the wing windows into place.



There were also some minor assembly issues with the front and rear bumpers. If you take your time and shape the bumpers, everything will fall into place.



It was nice to see the 1959 Ford retractable reissued, but many of the original assembly issues still exist. If you have patience and you are a detail-oriented modeler, I recommend this kit.

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